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MAGNACHARGER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: 2001 Evolution

Remove the air cleaner, carburetor and fuel line - cap the vacuum port on stock CV carburetor. Drain the fuel from the carb into a container for gas. Remove the rubber seal from the intake manifold and de-burr the opening to allow easy entry of the blower manifold 0-ring. Lube with light grease.

Remove front exhaust pipe - if stock crossover pipe on some models is still used, replace with aftermarket. The requirements of the exhaust system manufacturers are pretty loose, so some may require a small dimple or, in the case of a Thunder Header, a complete rework of the rear pipe. We have found that an inexpensive set of drag pipes may be altered by cutting them to length and slipping on your mufflers.

Remove the ignition trigger and wiring, but first mark the location of the screws with a felt marker; this saves re-timing. Remove rotor. Remove the "cone" cover taking care NOT to rotate engine or remove the cam. Lifter blocks, like the oil pump, are not universal in placement, and sometimes they can interfere with the blower - usually only on high-dollar billet units. If your engine is a '93 or later, it will require a top breather kit. Install the fittings into the heads at this time. In some cases it may be necessary to remove a little material from the blower housing with either a file or die grinder to allow clearance when fitting the blower. Remove the o-ring from the blower outlet and 'dry-run' install the MAGNACHARGER, using your old gasket, to make sure it clears the engine parts. Remove nut from back of blower.

To Install: Take blower assembly and turn clockwise to approximately the one o’clock position to align cam and pinion gear. This will require patience, as the cam is now under tension from valve springs. Wiggle the unit on; as it clears the pinion gear you can turn it back to vertical. Check manifold alignment and start dowel pins. Inside the gear box, the gear that is at the top drives the blower; it also has a hole to get to the case bolt which had the nut on it. By hand, rotate the gear until an allen wrench can be installed through the ¼" pipe plug hole. Tighten this bolt while pushing the unit on the engine. Sometimes a rubber hammer is useful here, but don’t beat anything into submission. Install other case bolts to help draw the unit up tight and torque all 5 bolts, then tighten the manifold bolts that you loosened earlier. Torque to specs given in your H-D manual.

With a .010 feeler gauge slide between front lifter block and MAGNACHARGER case, if this goes in you have properly installed lifter blocks. Visually check for any interference by any part of the engine, as sometimes after-market cases, barrels, etc. are of a different size or shape than H-D. We have experienced, in a couple of installations, that an AFTERMARKET case, i.e., Delkron, required a little metal removal from the top of the lifter area as they machined the case off towards the top leaving material that will not let the blower completely seat against the gasket. Remove the MAGNACHARGER and replace the o-ring on the outlet manifold.

In the parts package, you will find an odd shaped piece of sheet metal. This will slide over the cam and locate on top dowel pin and be secured with a 1/4-20 bolt of 3/4 long also in parts package. If it doesn't fit, turn it over.

You can now rotate the engine -- adjust valves, whatever. Rotate to timing marks. Refer always to your handy H-D service manual for specific knowledge of your model. Remove breather rotor- if you have a '90 and newer, remove the pinion nut and the pinion gear oil pump gear. If '89 & earlier or a stroker/after-market flywheel you will need a "puller" as the pinion gear is pressed on a taper. DO NOT TRY TO PRY the pinion gear off, I don't care how many beers you had. If you are installing a cam make sure on late model engines that the cam is the same length; some may require a shim washer. If you are unable to verify this, take your old cam and the new one to your local shop for assistance.

IMPORTANT! Clean pinion shaft with acetone or contact cleaner only. Take the new pinion nut and tighten it on the shaft by hand to make sure you have a good fit and the proper nut. The distance from the flange on the nut to the pinion shaft, where the oil pump gear seats, should be less than the length of the new drive gear. Remove the nut, make sure keys are in place and check that the new MAGNACHARGER gear will slide on the pinion shaft. Some keys are taller and may require to be filed slightly. Remove the gear assembly, re-clean all parts and coat the clean shaft with Loctite supplied in the kit; also coat the inside of gear. The supercharger is driven by the gear and shaft bonded by the Loctite, and not by the key, so it’s very crucial that the Loctite is properly applied. Sometimes the cam may rotate, making it difficult to keep the cam and timing mark on the pinion lined up. Simply count the number of teeth the cam has rotated and mark with a felt pen the same number of teeth on the new gear, so when you install it the timing marks will align when rotated forward. Slide gear on shaft, taking care to engage oil pump gear. Sometimes a plastic hammer is needed to assist, but don't kill the part. Put RED Loctite on nut and torque to specs in manual. Put bike in gear and apply rear brake to hold crank from turning. Check timing marks for alignment and install breather rotor. This is also timed so check all three timing marks for correctness.

On models with stock spigot manifold, REMOVE the rubber seal and lightly sand or de-burr the edge leading into the manifold, to help the blower slide into position without tearing the o-ring seal. Apply a light film of lube to help the blower manifold slide in; loosen manifold bolts to help align the manifold. On models with 2-bolt carb manifold, the blower will have the flange in this position.

Remove cam tool - sheet metal doohickey - install our special James gasket. Refer to the To Install section above; this time we're doing it for real. You might find it necessary to modify your allen wrench to fit this particular unit. Do this by rounding off the flats about 1/4" from the end to about 2" up. Again, sometimes the rubber hammer will assist but do not beat it into submission. Install other case bolts to help draw the unit up tight and torque all 5 bolts then tighten the manifold bolts that you loosened earlier. Again torque to specs in H-D manual. You may want to apply removable (Blue) Loctite to these bolts.

Put ignition spacer on end of cam; if stock rotor is used, check to make sure the rotor does not protrude past the gear case. If the rotor does protrude past the case, measure the amount needed to be taken off the rotor and remove an additional .050 to be safe. You may do this with a lathe, grinder or send back to MAGNACHARGER and we will at no cost prepare it for you.

Take gear cover and pass ignition through it and place the wire in position of the notch. This is a light press fit, and it does not require a lot of force, so if it does not go in, rotate the top gear in the opening a little to help align the drive gears. If you use your plastic hammer to help, DO NOT hit the cover where the lettering is. Watch the ignition wire pass through the slot - short ¼" x ½" Allen top left, the other 3 are I/4" x 3/4" allens. Position the ignition pickup where you marked it or retime engine -route wire through clamp and make sure it does not contact the exhaust.

For the stock CV carb, we have a simple re-jet kit along with an additional slide spring, which will make tuning a simple step. On supercharged motors it is necessary to retard the timing when in boost. Harley has done this for you with a V.O.E.S. switch that will require a simple modification. Remove the switch, and with a small screwdriver, remove the soft rubber plug from the back. This exposes the adjusting screw. Back the screw off until you can hear it click when about a half inch of vacuum is applied. While adjusting, make sure that the exposed screw is sealed by your finger, to get a correct reading. Reseal with silicone sealer when done and replace on bike. Attach the hose from your V.O.E.S. switch to the little brass port on the manifold; this is also where you would attach the boost gauge if you run one.

Put top blower mount in place -- remove 3 top engine mount bolts and loosen others, place top blower mount and make sure bolts fit loosely before tightening -- do not force, this must fit or it will damage blower. On rubber-mounted motors there is a cross linkage that stabilizes the engine. You will have to slightly bend the top blower mount to clear the frame side of this linkage, then remove the 3/8" bolt on the engine side and mark a location to drill a new hole in the top blower mount with a drill, after you remove it from the bike. Re-install the mount, taking care all bolts fit easily in place and tighten.

Replace fuel tanks and install new air cleaner. Check for proper throttle movement and install longer choke cable and fuel line at this time. Put gas in and check for leaks. In gear case above the lettering 'Gear Driven' there is a 1/4" pipe plug. This allows you to put 4 oz. of engine oil in the cam case to help prime oil pump. DO NOT over-torque this plug, as it is tapered and could crack the case if you "gorilla" it too tight. The bike MUST sit for 24 hours to set Loctite. Start and check for leaks! There should not be any.

This system is designed to use an electronic ignition that has the ability to be retarded automatically by either a V.O.E.S. switch that is on all late model bikes or a pressure switch. The reason for this is, the engine is running at 8.5-1 compression when NOT in boost and immediately goes to 10.5-1 when you aggressively twist the throttle and requires less advance or lead so no advance weight type ignitions. It's the 90's and technology is your friend…

If you plan to run pump gas the engine must be 8.5-1 or less compression ratio or you will need to run race gas all the time. Every 3 LBS of boost equals about 1 compression point. That means an 8.5-1 with 8-10 LBS of boost is now 3 points higher or about 11-1 when you are on it hard and on pump gas this is about as far as you can go!

In some isolated cases there are three things that will kill blower motors:

1. Timing, detonation or poor fuel. Simply retard the timing until knock is gone. Harley saved some money by retarding only the rear cylinder so if you plan to ride aggressively put a Dyna 2009 HDE-1 module in for better ignition and get an adjustable rev limiter.

2. Backfire or sneeze. Once in a while the engine may backfire, no problem but if it does this on a regular event you will hammer the rotors out of the blower. Do not drive if it backfires until you correct this!!!!!

3. Improper jetting, usually too lean at high speed, could burn a piston. Correct by installing a larger jet, this is part of tuning that needs to be done on any modifications to the engine. A larger, hi-flow petcock is always good insurance if high speed is the goal.

Now the good news: if you did the installation properly and the "3 evils" don't show up, the bike is a gas to ride and just as dependable as stock but with the power it should have had and a sound that is unmistakably MAGNACHARGED.

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This page last updated: March 18, 2003
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